Checking your oil takes two minutes. Changing it yourself takes maybe 30, once you've done it a couple of times, and saves real money over having a shop do it every time. Both are worth knowing how to do.
How to check your oil
- Park on level ground and make sure the engine is cool — checking hot oil gives an inaccurate reading and risks burns.
- Open the hood and locate the dipstick (usually a brightly colored handle).
- Pull it out, wipe it clean with a rag, then reinsert it fully.
- Pull it out again and look at where the oil sits relative to the min/max or "ADD"/"FULL" markings.
- If it's low, top off with the oil type specified in your owner's manual — don't guess, since using the wrong type or viscosity can cause real problems.
Do this once a month, or before any long trip. It's the single easiest way to catch a slow leak or low oil level before it becomes an expensive problem.
How to change your own oil
What you'll need: the correct oil (check your owner's manual or the oil filler cap for the right type and viscosity), a new oil filter matched to your exact vehicle, a wrench or socket set, an oil filter wrench, a drain pan, a funnel, gloves, and safety glasses. If you're raising the vehicle, you'll also need ramps or a jack plus properly rated jack stands.
Safety first, always:
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use ramps, or a jack plus jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight, on level ground.
- Let the engine cool before you start — hot oil can cause serious burns.
- Wear gloves and safety glasses.
The process:
- Warm the oil slightly. Some people run the engine for a minute or two first, since slightly warm oil drains more completely and carries more contaminants out with it. Just don't let it get hot enough to burn you.
- Raise the vehicle safely if needed, using ramps or a jack and jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Locate the drain plug on the underside of the oil pan, and position your drain pan directly beneath it.
- Loosen and remove the drain plug, letting the old oil drain completely — this can take several minutes.
- Remove the old oil filter using an oil filter wrench, keeping the drain pan positioned to catch any remaining oil. Make sure the old filter's gasket comes off with it; a leftover gasket stuck to the housing is one of the most common mistakes and causes leaks.
- Prep the new filter by applying a thin layer of fresh oil to its rubber gasket, which helps it seal properly.
- Install the new filter by hand until snug, then tighten slightly further per the filter's instructions — don't overtighten.
- Reinstall the drain plug, tightened to the torque spec in your owner's manual (often around 30 lb-ft, but this varies by vehicle).
- Lower the vehicle, then add new oil through the fill port using a funnel — pour slowly, and check the level with the dipstick as you go rather than guessing the full amount at once.
- Run the engine for a minute, then shut it off and let it settle for a few minutes before rechecking the dipstick. Top off if needed.
- Check for leaks underneath the vehicle before you consider the job done.
Common mistakes worth avoiding
- Leaving the old filter gasket stuck in place (causes leaks)
- Overtightening the drain plug (can strip the threads)
- Adding too much or too little oil
- Using the wrong oil type or viscosity for your engine
- Forgetting to add new oil after draining the old — always double-check with the dipstick before starting the car
What to do with the old oil
Never pour used oil down a drain or onto the ground — it's genuinely harmful to soil and waterways. Most auto parts stores and service stations will take used oil for recycling, often for free.
Try it yourself
